Story scent: Tom Ford’s ‘Noir De Noir’ (creates a story so many people want to embody)

Story best enjoyed with a taste of: Salted caramel popcorn

Play on repeat while reading: ‘Shine On You Crazy Diamond (Pts. 1-5)’ by Pink Floyd (so much told through barely any lyrics)

I love a good story. Whether it’s told by a girl I just met at a bar, an album carefully constructed by an inspired artist or models moving down a runway. Exploring the details, uncovering layers, catching obscure references, that’s how I consume pretty much any content with storytelling qualities. For me, the intricacies of the presentation are as important as the product itself. That’s why, looking at some of the collections put out by designers over the past couple of fashion months, I have to unfortunately say I am a bit disappointed.

I am not going to call out anyone in particular; the bigger brands won’t pay attention, and the smaller brands have other things on their mind. So, truly, what’s the point of sensationalising this story with brand names? More importantly, the purpose of this piece is not to bring down any designer who has put weeks of work and parts of themselves into their collection. It is more of a general meditation on the declining consensus between runway and story.

After analysing some of the shows I attended, the livestreams I watched, and the press releases I received, the lack of continuity suddenly becomes painfully obvious. I can’t stress enough the importance of the word ‘some’. I will use that work more than once, and in more than one context.

Some designers have forgone a consistent story in creating their collections (and some have told a story so compelling I disappeared in it completely), some parts of the collection did not seem to fit into the storyline presented and felt more like an innocent bystander who accidentally wondered into a meticulously planned theme party (and some looks were perfectly consistent with the theme, yet managed to independently display their depths within the bigger context).

Okay, we have an understanding. When I speak of my dissatisfaction, it is only with some. And you will never know exactly which ones. Such is the mystery.

I am not under the spell of youthful naiveté. I know fashion is not just a blob of creativity, mushed together with art and covered in pattern and fabric. It’s a business like any other. For some brands, these shows are the only opportunity to present their full range to potential buyers, media and consumers. They need to give it their all, show everyone what they can do, because sometimes independent brands don’t get another chance.

Even with the hype they might create with potentially viral moments (we will get back to the point of virality in a second), their sales will still slowly decline once the news cycle has passed. They need to show their craftsmanship, present clothes that are wearable enough for the buyers, appealing and easily digestible enough for the average consumer and loud enough for the media to mention. With all this in mind, telling a story might not be a priority.

Unless you are a brand that has one signature style or theme apparent throughout your designs, I’m talking easily recognisable shape, unique fabric, specific pattern or one single clear inspiration, you are not likely to contemplate creating a complex three-act play with your garments. And if you are, the story is often vague enough to still make sense when the designs deviate from it. It might even include some buzzwords in the description, just to suspend the audience’s disbelief.

So that brings us to bigger brands. The ones that still prioritise buyers and media but can allow themselves a more complex and layered story. But just because they are allowed doesn’t mean they are actively practising the art of storytelling. They might have a title for their collection, a list of inspirations and historical figures they are paying homage to, they might even create characters, but do those characters actually interact with each other in a way that tells a story, or are they pulled from the same buzzword soup they were swimming in for the last two decades?

A lot of these shows come with a pre-written, easily digestible press release. You know the one —it often contains words like ‘craftsmanship’, ‘journey’, ‘transcends’, ‘drew inspiration’, and wraps everything up with a compelling story of a memorable figure or a time in history. Although these descriptions help understand the story behind the collection, they also raise the questions: Would the story still make sense without the press release? Would we understand it just by looking?

Often, the written story makes everyone even more confused. You can write a story and link your designs to an inspiration, but if you don’t actually follow through with the references, people are just left wondering. Where the fuck did that come from? Yes, you are inspired by that 18th-century pirate, and yes, you added pirate-shaped accessories to your collection, but an 18th-century pirate is not really a story, is it? Without continuity, you are just imitating a pirate.

Maybe to understand certain complexities, you need an eye for detail and industry experience. I get that. But there is also feeling. A story told well makes you feel, not just analyse.

Before wrapping up, let’s get back to the question of virality. Oh, that dreaded question. Lately, when it comes to anything art-related, anything creative, or literally ANYTHING, we always have to talk about virality. Honestly, I’m tired and I don’t want to.

So all I’ll say is nowadays looks have to be memorable enough to raise social media engagement, yet a lot of (or some) brands have a very silly way of doing it. The sensationalisation of their designs is sort of the fashion equivalent of men rage-bating on the internet. Yes, we will speak about it, we will discuss it, we love to hate it, but then what?

People might talk about the subverted narratives and the shock factor of it all. Still, virality without storytelling will lead you down the path of Balenciaga, who have rage-baited themselves into an early grave.

You can also go viral for a great story, good craftsmanship and continuity. Years from now, nobody will remember the weird bin bag totes for £3000, but we’ll still be raving about Mugler’s “Les Insects”, and I see at least 10 new videos pop up every year, breaking down the iconic moments from McQueen’s 1999 “No. 13”. So, really, what stands the test of time, cheap shock value or inspired curation?

There is a way to tell a complex story and showcase your range. You can combine fabrics like books and films combine genres. You can look at and understand the story, you can feel it, and even if the brain begins to forget, the heart will remember.

Yes, runway shows are a part of a bigger business, but they are also an experience. People, no matter if they are buyers, fashion critics, reporters or influencers (which, like, why), are still people. They want their souls touched, they want their emotions brought to the surface, they want newness, and they want a good fucking story. Give them that, and they will remember.