Movement, by Marsden Hartley
This London Fashion Week, I braved into the world of thoughtfully crafted garments and carefully curated jewellery. Each show had something special hidden within the layers of the fabric. Each brand re-imagined the space in which they presented their newest creations and curated an experience.
Apart from getting what will soon become a fully formed cold, I would say it was an overall pleasant experience.
Among the shows I attended, there were a couple that especially stood out. Some fascinated me with their patterns, shapes and textures, others with their incredibly innovative presentation. As each of these shows came to an end, I would immediately take out my phone and start typing my freshly formed impressions.
These impressions are a representation of the emotional and mental state induced by these new collections. I glossed over the press releases, but mostly, I operated based only on the feelings I had in the moment. Feelings turned into words, which in turn became little essays. They include descriptions of collections, my personal favourites and genuine excitement to see people’s imaginations manifest themselves in physical presentations.
You can find more visuals from the shows on the MKH Instagram and TikTok.
The Ouze, 'Proof of Life'
The Ouze LFW Presentation – ‘Proof of Life’
The Ouze jewellery is unpolished and unapologetically human. Their LFW Presentation reflected that same humanity.
As we entered the space, we were greeted by the sight of household objects and rooms with no walls frozen in time, as if the people existing in them had not left but simply disappeared or were invisible to the human eye.
Every detail, from the cigarette-filled ashtray to the fridge full of half-opened groceries, was not random. Like the human touch on the jewellery itself, it felt chaotically curated.
The jewellery hiding between the dark domesticity of the forgotten home demanded a closer look. Spotting the unpolished surfaces shining between familiar objects turned into a game.
I returned to what was perhaps my favourite part of the room, the dining table where a cake proudly stood, and watched the silver bracelet lie still on an unwrapped chocolate bar. How can it be so still when there is so much humanity in it?
Yaku SS26, 'The ImPossible Family Reunion in RPG Space - Chapter 6: A Ground to Stand On', by Agathe Moubembe
Yaku SS26 – ‘The ImPossible Family Reunion in RPG Space – Chapter 6: A Ground to Stand On’
Another fashion week and another show where Yaku turns a presentation into a theatrical experience filled with familiar characters.
With each passing show, we discover more about this fantasy-like family, yet the warmth of watching Yaku’s designs manifest themselves as defining characteristics of these otherworldly creatures always remains.
The family came out to grace the runway one by one, each passing slowly, sharing their journey with each movement. Yaku’s characters don’t rush; they take their time letting us study the details of the layered looks.
The family reconvenes in the middle of the room where the mythical Télavani stands, a collection of abstract figures informed by the pre-colonial resistance histories of Jamaica and St. Vincent. Before the characters take their final turn around the room, we are allowed a closer look as they play, plot, and exist in a space removed from reality.
Karina Bond SS26, 'The Midnight Sun'
Karina Bond SS26 – ‘The Midnight Sun’
Karina Bond transcended reality with her SS26 collection. Finding myself in the front row meant I could take in every detail of the carefully crafted garments.
Taking 3D threading to a new level, each piece carried a combination of shapes, colours and textures that came alive as the models moved flirtatiously through the runway.
Although I struggled to understand how a couple looks fit into the show’s general narrative, the collection still told a story. Each piece brought a sensory tale, a surreal world where clothing evolves into art displayed meticulously on the body.
Among my favourite looks were the perfectly sculpted yellow mini-dress, the hooded dress with a blue and white fridge creating lively movement with each step and of course, the show stopped, the final dress of the collection.
Harri SS26, 'MuseumWear'
Harri SS26 – ‘MuseumWear’
A show definitely worth almost freezing to death in a courtyard of the Barbican Centre.
The brand’s new ready-to-wear collection perfectly blends daring shapes, tailored silhouettes and slightly comical details.
The latex coats radiated familiarity, taking the brand’s heart and reimagining it for everyday use. The beaded vests added summer flavours, and the micro bags carried by the models sprinkled in some silliness into this perfectly curated collection.
Of course, a Harri collection would not be complete without the tops with inflatable shoulders. Present in both white and black, they turned heads, reminding us of the brand’s signature play on shape.
I watched as the models passed, each introducing a new colour palette and a new combination of shapes. I wanted to marvel at the looks but also drain my bank account trying to procure them, which is what ready-to-wear is kind of about.